Sometimes it’s snapper. Others it’s wahoo or rockfish. But it’s always a masterpiece. And it’s an essential part of the fabric of Bermuda. 

On this Atlantic island, the fish sandwich isn’t just lunch. It’s not a single meal. It’s a hotly contested, endlessly deconstructed, tightly guarded national treasure. 

And it’s one of the best things you’ll ever eat. 

Of course, just which one is best is a matter of never-ending debate. Your taxi driver from the airport might prefer Mamma Mia’s. The hotel barman might tell you it’s Seaside Grill. Politicians, lawyers and executives all have their favorites, too: maybe it’s the White Horse. Or countless other outposts. 

What isn’t a subject of debate is the core: two slices of toasted raisin bread, deep-fried local fish (including one of the above-mentioned varieties), tartar sauce, lettuce, tomato and coleslaw. Sometimes there’s relish. Others, cheese. 

The result is, plainly, phenomenal. No matter where you turn, 

I’m a fish connoisseur — I’ve been a pescatarian for a long time, and traveling the Caribbean for two decades means I’ve had just about every kind of fish in every possible preparation. That includes fish sandwiches — from flying fish cutters in Barbados to bake and shark in Barbados. 

This is another level. The breading, the batter, the freshness — and sheer size — of the fish is spectacular. These are not small sandwiches — they are traditionally overloaded, with over-the-top-large pieces of fish that the toasted raisin bread can barely try and contain within its borders. I will caution that holding it all together is clearly a skill, one honed on years of expertly handling fish sandwiches. And, for the uninitiated, it means you’re likely to end up with something more resembling a fish platter and a side of bread. 

But that’s part of the charm of this dish — and one that will keep you coming back. 

So what about the taste itself? The slight sweetness of the bread marries perfectly with the fresh, briny quality of the fish and the deliciously crispy batter. The latter is particularly impressive — it’s the sort of batter you rarely if ever find on even the best pieces of fish — with a quality more like fried chicken than fish — and a very welcome one at that. Another note: it pairs exquisitely with a glass of Gosling’s Rum.

My favorite fish sandwich on my recent stay was a perfectly-crafted fish sandwich (which had some relish as well) at the Astwood Arms pub in Hamilton.

Bermuda has sundry charms ,from its golf to its beaches to its breezy, wonderful ambience. But this sandwich is a reason alone to come here. It’s the best fish sandwich you’ve ever eaten, or will eat. And maybe the best sandwich, period. 

But to the more burning question: what’s the best fish sandwich in Bermuda? 

It’s the one you’re eating right now.