How to stay cool in San Juan

By Sarah Greaves-Gabbadon
CJ Travel Editor

From his tiny Old San Juan house, Juan Eddie Rosado has been keeping Sanjuaneros cool for 46 years. During that time he’s sold his refreshing cups of fruit-flavored ice, known as limber, to everyone from rowdy groups of school kids to Princess Diana and the king of Spain. And he’s not even on any tourist map.

Now a retired American Airlines employee, Rosado started the joint venture with his sister and grandmother out of his house when he was just 16. Back then, they made cubes of ice from tropical juices such as guava, mango and coconut milk, and sold them from their home’s saloon door for five cents each. In 1971, the Rosados converted to five-ounce cups. And now they sell limber in seven-ounce cups, in flavors ranging from limón to the exotic-sounding china-fresa, for 75 cents.

But even though the price has increased, demand for the “stickless popsicle” has remained steady over the decades. Rosado sells as many as 70 cups a day, despite the fact that he doesn’t advertise.

Walking the streets of the cobblestoned capital, you (as we did) might need to stop and quiz half a dozen locals for directions. And no doubt you’ll also need to learn the proper pronunciation of limber  – locals call it “limbel” – before you find the exact location of this hidden homegrown treasure.

So we’ll save you the trouble and divulge that Rosado’s place is at Calleta De La Munjas, mere steps from El Convento hotel.

Mosey down the small, sloping street and look on the right-hand side for the purple bloom of bougainvillea that almost obscures the hand-painted sign offering “LIMBERS AGUA REFRESCOS.” Then mosey up to the saloon door and order a cup of San Juan’s secret (and sweetest) popsicle.

And tell Rosado we sent you.