They’re always here, down the sides of nondescript commercial buildings, down the streets you don’t expect.

The best restaurants are rarely where you imagine.

And that’s precisely true at Yantar.

This modern eatery with the view of the Condado lagoon is hidden away in a small office complex.

But inside there are wonders.

While other chefs have accrued more acclaim, Chef Xiomara Marquez has very quietly been helming what is, right now, the best restaurant in Puerto Rico.

A woman in a decidedly man’s world in Puerto Rico’s gastronomic world, Marquez, trained in the best of Spanish gastronomy, has a lot of competitors.

While the Puerto Rican food world remains largely a man’s world, Marquez bears down and cooks, serving up impressive, elegant, artful food.

And then there is the service, an all too often, increasingly forgotten element of great restaurants.

Here, in something rare for the Caribbean — there is more than one person serving your table.

Yes, this is a world of white tablecloths and waiters and captains, making the experience an event rather than a banal delivery of food. And that is a wonderful thing.

The decor is crisp and sleek, with a view of the Condado lagoon and a center bar.

But the biggest story here is Marquez and her food, prepared with the kind of passion one can taste, an intoxicating — and even daunting — mix of Spanish and Puerto Rico flavors, textures and inspirations.

From exquisite cuttlefish to codfish with Asturian fava beans and cured sausage to gloriously prepared foie gras and just about everything between, this is a must-visit eatery — and the thoughtful service and crisp ambience make for the total package.

But the menu is ever-changing, so one must try the tasting menu — one of the Caribbean’s great culinary experiences and a wonderful way to sample the artistry of a great chef.

— Alexander Britell, Editor in Chief