One of the wonderful things about Martinique’s famous rhums agricoles is their sheer diversity.

While molasses-based rum brands may release a new expression in years-long intervals, Martinique’s rum producers are always thinking of new ideas. It doesn’t hurt that agricole rums vary by the quality of the harvest, meaning that every vintage will mean a different taste — just like great wine.

That’s why we were delighted to come upon the latest XO expression from one of the island’s legendary producers — Rhum Saint-James.

And the latest Saint James XO on the shelves in Martinique is a winner.

This expression is a blend of rums between six and 10 years of age, with a dark amber color typical of older Saint James varieties.

It has an aroma of bourbon and caramel, and a remarkably varied flavor profile of orange peel, spice, flowers and even a bit of chartreuse. The finish has notes of licorice and black pepper.

Typical of a Saint James, this has a luxurious, velvety texture and a wonderful balance of sweetness and strength.

It’s outstanding.

— CJ