By Alexander Britell

TROIS ILETS — You know you’ve ordered properly when the barman leaves to fetch the key.

At the wonderful Le Gommier bar at the Hotel Bakoua in Martinique, it’s hard not to make the right choice — and it’s what’s behind the lock that’s worth the trip.

This well-designed lobby bar at one of Martinique’s best hotels is home to a rather rarefied collection of aged rums from the island, set in a locked glass case on the wall.

And that’s what really makes this bar so special: the opportunity to taste a range of serious old rhums agricoles, all for less than the price of a Bacardi cocktail in Miami Beach.

The barman opens the glass case of rum

That means, for ‎€15, a Dillon Annee 1998, or, for the same price, a Depaz Cuvee de Centenaire — some of the best rums you can find anywhere.

And it’s not just Dillon or Depaz – the list is wide: Trois Rivieres Annee 1999; Bally Annee 2000, Bally Pyramide 12 Ans; La Mauny XO 6 Ans — even some as old as Saint James Annee 1931 (Although that will set you back €90).

Of course, if it’s a strong planteur or a punch you’re after, you can find it here, too, as the bar is home to some inspired cocktails.

Because at Le Gommier, it’s all about rum.

— CJ