Martinique: The Caribbean Island Most Americans Still Overlook

The beaches. The food. The rainforests. The bakeries. The art. The Caribbean island of Martinique remains one of the great undiscovered destinations in the region for American travelers, and now it has regular flights this summer from Miami.

Americans, you see, have yet to explore the layered, diverse tourism product on this island in any significnat numbers. It’s hidden away, it’s unexplored. It’s a great secret island staring you in the face from the heart of the Eastern Caribbean. But whether you’re heading to the Napa Valley of rum or hiking the Caribbean’s version of Vesuvius (the daunting Mont Peele), Martinique is a rich, fascinating place to visit. 

So what is so enchanting about Martinique? 

First, the rum: there are more rum distilleries on this one island than anywhere else in the world, all specializing in the artisanal rhum agricole of the French Caribbean, which is made, unlike the vast majority of rum around the world, from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, one that produces absolutely exquisite expressions that compete favorably with the rarest whiskies and cognacs. 

Then, the food: take all of the things you love about French fare then combine them with Caribbean produce and flavors. One of our favorite dishes on the island? A foie gras mille-feuille, made with alternating layers of banana and foie gras. I still dream about it, and you can find it at eateries around the island, including the legendary Le Petibonum beach bar led by genius chef Guy Ferdinand. 

This is a beautiful, sophisticated island

Then, the scenery: from the imposing volcano of Mont Pelee to the stunning Diamond Rock on the south of the island (set across from one of my favorite beaches, the black-sand Le Diamant); to the colorful streets of Fort de France. 

And the art: the cultural scene here is world-class, with art galleries all over, fascinating art installations (like the stunning Anse Cafard Memorial and a palpable sense that people here are creating, innovating and living passionately. 

The history

Then. Saint Pierre: this little town is called the Caribbean Pompeii; in 1902, the volcano erupted, destroying what was at the time the “Paris of the Caribbean” in what was one of the biggest human tragedies of the 20th century. Today, it’s a vibrant little town, with bakeries, cafes, beautiful black-sand beaches and a palpable sense of history (it’s also home to one of my favorite distilleries, the absolutely beautiful Rhum Depaz). 

You’re probably wondering about hotels: now, you should be aware that you have to dig for good hotels here.

Where to stay in Martinique?

As delicious a Caribbean island it is for its lack of large-scale US tourism, that also means you won’t find any branded hotels, no five-star resorts, and few up to the kinds of standards you might expect. (And, while this may go without saying, English is not widely spoken, so, again, this is a place for getting out of your comfort zone, really traveling, and really immersing yourself. Even a small bonjour goes a long way.

But you can find them. I love the Plein Soleil, a tiny hotel on the northeastern coast of Martinique (close to distillery visits like the legendary Habitation Clement). We’ve visited multiple times and love the boutique-style retreat for its plunge-pool rooms. 

There’s also the French Coco, a similarly charming boutique hotel on the eastern coast of this Caribbean island with just 17 rooms, most with their own pools, with rates at $374 this summer. 

It’s a bit faded, but the beachfront rooms at the Hotel Bakoua are fun, where you literally step right out onto the sand and walk right over to the very cool floating bar. It’s a touristy, but fun hotel that is admittedly in a very good location just across the bay from Fort de France (the capital) in the beach town of Trois Ilets. Rooms go for $161. 

If you want to be closer to the northwest, and beach towns like Le Carbet, there is the family-run Madicreoles hotel, which has a great location near the beach and a residential-style concept. $109 per night. 

And if you don’t want a hotel, the island actually has some of the best villa product in the Caribbean, at very favorable prices, too, including a healthy stock of elegant, ocean-view villas with infinity pools and all the accoutrements. I like to use VillaVeo to do this research, and would recommend areas like Le Diamant or Le Vauclin if you’re seeking a villa vacation. Martinique also has the most impressive supermarkets anywhere in the Caribbean, something that’s essential if you’re planning a villa getaway. 

So why don’t Americans travel to this Caribbean island? Well, lots of reasons, but chiefly, it’s never been particularly easy to get to. 

The options from the US are limited — unless you’re on American. 

How to get here

AA is flying twice each week between Miami and Martinique’s Aime Cesaire International Airport this summer, with service on Tuesdays and Sundays, Caribbean Journal has confirmed. 

That also opens up Martinique to, well, anywhere that American flies from to Miami. 

So what about prices? Right now, depending on the day and month you choose, you can find fares for about $867 roundtrip, according to Google Flights. 

That may go down, depending on demand. 

But a vacation to Martinique is something very different from anywhere else you’ve been in the Caribbean; I love going here, I love recommending it; I have been traveling all over Martinique for more than 13 years; it’s a place that adventurous travelers will fall in love with. It’s real, it’s pulsing and it’s authentic, a place that gives you that rarest of feelings in the travel world today: discovery.