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You Can’t Visit Negril, Jamaica Without a Stop at This Bar

jamaica ricks cafe

Rick's Cafe. All photos by James Washington.

Rick’s Cafe in Negril, Jamaica is one of a handful of bars in the Caribbean that have become an attraction unto themselves: think Margaritaville, but with live cliff jumping (by performers and customers alike) in place of waterslides. It isn’t hype to say that no visit to Negril is truly complete without a visit to Rick’s, whether you’re there to sip a rum punch and enjoy the chill vibe or tick a high-altitude plunge into the blue waters of the Caribbean Sea off your bucket list.

Located on Negril’s West End cliffs — south of Seven Mile Beach and the town of Negril, and close to the Rockhouse, Caves, and Tensing Pen resorts — Rick’s predates mass tourism to Negril, opening in 1974 when the west coast town was a quiet fishing village that mostly was visited by backpackers.

Set high on a clifftop, the restaurant and bar have been greatly expanded in the past 50 years but retain many of their original charms, including outstanding ocean views and the opportunity to engage in one of Negril’s most thrilling pastimes: leaping from a cliff into the ocean.

Just steps from the bar (and yes, alcohol and cliff diving can be a dubious mix) are a trio of diving platforms open to the public: a fairly tame 10 feet, exponentially more challenging 25 feet, and a truly pulse-pounding 35 feet. A jump from any height will land you in a 15-foot deep cove, with ladders nearby to help you exit the waters after your jump.

Considering taking the plunge? The first question to ask yourself is, can I swim? If not, don’t. Second question probably should be: is this liquid courage or the real thing? In other words, don’t jump after imbibing.

Notice that it’s “jump,” not “dive.” Nobody in their right mind would invite a broken neck by diving from any of these heights, not even the local kids who leap from an even higher (50 foot) platform in exchange for tips. Even a foot-first jump is far from risk-free: a friend who visited with us cracked several ribs just by entering the water at a slightly bent angle rather than straight-in, toes first.

Cliff jumping — whether you try it yourself or watch others do it (and watching people working up their bravery to try is also an undeniable spectator sport) — is far from the only thing to do at Rick’s. Negril visitors who show up on foot from local resorts, via taxi or on a catamaran outing pay no cover charge to enjoy the live music on Rick’s large clifftop stage or take in the magnificent sunset views. Guests also are welcome to take a cooling plunge in the swimming pool, which is surrounded by cabanas that can be rented by groups of up to 10 people.

The two-story main building at Rick’s, rebuilt twice after hurricanes in the past few decades, includes the requisite gift shop as well as a deck-top dining area (restaurant tables also occupy a cliff-level space near the stage).

Food and drink prices are maybe a bit on the high end — $11 cocktails, $25 for jerk chicken, $40 for lobster — but you’re paying for the atmosphere and, on balance, the quality is good. Rum drinks are made with local Appleton, and the escovitch red snapper offers a taste of local cuisine that goes beyond the usual jerked food.

If you want to keep it cheap and simple, order a Red Stripe for $5 and some jerk chicken kabobs for $18 — it’s called a starter, but the kabobs come with fries or onion rings, probably just enough to satisfy your palate and steady your nerves before deciding to join the line for cliff diving — or just order another cold one.

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