By Alexander Britell
When the harvest changes, the rum changes.
It’s a tenet particular to the Rhum Agricole of the French Caribbean, the only Caribbean rum with a true terroir.
When you make your rum from freshly pressed sugar cane juice, the peculiarities of every year’s new cane mean a different result, just as rums made from different corners of Martinique and Guadeloupe have their own personalities.
What this also means is that the vintage year is of great importance for rhum agricole.
Which brings us to the our latest object of sugarcane affection, the Trois Rivieres Triple Millesime, from the venerable Sainte-Luce distillery — one that has been putting out increasingly impressive expressions in recent years.
This is no single vintage, but a trilogy, a blend of three Gran Crus from 1998, 2006 and 2007, respectively, aged in French and American oak.
It’s another wonderful innovation by French Caribbean rummakers, a new spin on an old concept, one most recently mastered by Rhum JM with their own Triple Millesime.
So what’s it like?
This amber-hued rhum has an aroma of apricot, orange peel and spice.
The flavor profile begins with spice and then notes of heavy wood, tobacco, dried apricot and the faintest whisper of vanilla.
Then things get even more interesting, as the rum starts to become savory, with a fascinating breadfruit-style accent.
Ultimately, the rum harmonizes the sweet and the savory into a buttery, very well balanced finish.
At 42 degrees, it’s a relatively robust rum, but the trio of rums collaborates on a very interesting — and satisfying melody.
The verdict? A very fine rum indeed.
Rum Journal Review: 93 Points