By Alexander Britell

Ever since I first tried the old Rhum Depaz VSOP, the one that came in the dark wine-style bottle, I was hooked.

It was a great value rhum agricole, eminently drinkable but with serious complexity. It was special.

Of course, because of the rummaking in Martinique, every harvest is different and the same rum will taste different each year as a result.

So I was excited to try the newest expression of the seven-year-old Depaz VSOP on a recent jaunt to Martinique.

So what is it like?

The aroma has a hint of anise, dried fruit, coffee and incense, while the flavor profile with notes of dried apricot, black pepper, white wine, tobacco and cardamom.

Bottled at 45 degrees, it’s got some serious punch — but it’s also a superb expression.

It’s a bit heavier and richer than the old wine-style bottlings, more robust, spicier.

It’s still a special rum.

Rhum Depaz VSOP

Rum Journal Review: 92 Points