Let’s just say it: the white rums of the French Caribbean just taste better than their counterparts in the rest of the region.

White rhums agricoles have the complexity, flavor, character and smoothness you simply won’t find in the vast majority of molasses-based white rums. In other words, you can even drink them neat (though they’re naturally best in a Ti’ punch.)

And when it comes to the French Caribbean, it’s hard to argue with Guadeloupe’s Rhum Bologne, famous for its yellow label and one of the most ubiquitous ingredients in the ti’ punch.

But in recent years, a rum known well for its classic white variety has been quietly diversifying, from particularly with new aged expressions that have set a new standard for the brand.

But Rhum Bologne hasn’t forgotten its roots, particularly with one of its latest expressions: Rhum Bologne Black Cane.

This rum is 100 percent comprised of so-called “black” sugarcane, a kind that is particularly hard to cultivate and largely fallen out of use in Guadeloupe — indeed, Bologne is the last distillery in Guadeloupe to cultivate it.

But it’s a different kind of cane, one that produces a more potent, “concentrated” juice, and in turn a special kind of rum.

This rum has a robust aroma of cane, licorice and a slightly floral quality.

The flavour profile has notes of tropical fruit, mango, anise and sugarcane.

It’s remarkably smooth, with a slightly sweet finish.

Yes, this is more concentrated than the traditional white Bologne rhum, but it preserves its classic smoothness and floral quality.

This is a superb rum, and another success for Guadeloupe’s venerable rum brand.